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Fitness
Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata "O. Marangoni" on Monte Albano - Mori

· 2 reviews · Fixed rope route · Rovereto, Vallagarina, Altopiano di Brentonico
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Garda Trentino Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Via Ferrata Monte Albano. with view over Mori
    / Via Ferrata Monte Albano. with view over Mori
    Photo: Ralf Stute - www.via-ferrata.de, Garda Trentino
  • Via Ferrata O. Marangoni - Monte Albano
    / Via Ferrata O. Marangoni - Monte Albano
    Photo: Eleborazione grafica di Sveva Seneci, Garda Trentino
Map / Via Ferrata "O. Marangoni" on Monte Albano - Mori
150 300 450 600 750 m km 0.5 1 1.5 2 2.5 3 3.5

Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps. It was completely renovated in 2014.

difficult
3.6 km
2:31 h
552 m
552 m

Author’s recommendation

This via ferrata is exposed to the south: in summer, avoid it when it's too hot or start the route early in the morning.

outdooractive.com User
Author
Valentina Bellotti
Updated: September 12, 2018

Difficulty
D difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
626 m
Lowest point
202 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition
NESW
Climbing length
550 m, 2:00 h
Descent
0:30 h

Safety information

  • Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
  • Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
  • Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
  • The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
  • Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice on some routes which make progression dangerous.
  • Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems); put on your helmet once you get near to the wall. Rocks might fall before you get to the start of the via ferrata.
  • During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one is clipped on to each safety cable.
  • Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
  • Wear clothing suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route: hiking boots and ferrata gloves to protect you from contact with the metal parts.
  • Pay special attention on the easy parts where there are no cables.
  • Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather. If you even think you see any problems that might compromise safety, turn back and let us know about the situation at info@gardatrentino.it.
  • In an emergency call 118.
  • These instructions are no substitute for the specific courses held by mountaineering associations or professional guides. Unless you have experience doing via ferratas, it is better to go accompanied by a mountain guide.

The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case,  the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.

Tips, hints and links

  • For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda:
     APT Garda Trentino, Tel. +39 0464 554444 - www.gardatrentino.it

Start

Mori (201 m)
Coordinates:
Geographic
45.853788, 10.979446
UTM
32T 653675 5079707

Destination

Mori

Turn-by-turn directions

Access:
From the centre of Mori follow directions and head uphill towards the sanctuary from which a short trail takes you to the start of the via ferrata- (Put on your helmet before you approach the rock wall – this is an area where stones may fall dislodged by people above you on the ferrata)

Description:
the first rocky outcrop (1) is deliberately without any chains in order to discourage the unprepared. The first section climbs up through a series of chimneys (3), punctuated by short traverses (2), fitted with numerous rungs and with some strenuous stretches. A traverse to the left (4) takes you to the great ledge halfway up the wall. Traverse to the left until you are going up another chimney (5) and then with another lofty traverse you reach the libro di via or route book (6). Following the sequence of rungs you can get past a sequence of slabs and vertical dihedrals (7) which lead you off the wall.

Descent:
Follow the signposted path back down which follows the left edge of the wall to take you back tot the sanctuary.

Public transport

Public transport friendly

Mori is connected to the centers of Garda Trentino by the bus line 332 (Riva - Rovereto - Trento).
For up-to-the-minute information on timetables and routes: www.gardatrentino.it

Getting there

Getting to northern lake Garda / Garda Trentino: www.gardatrentino.it

 

Mori is about 15 km from Riva del Garda. You can reach it via the state road 240 in the direction Rovereto.

Parking

There are several parking places available in Mori. 

Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Reviews

5.0
(2)

Photos of others


Reviews
Difficulty
D difficult
Distance
3.6 km
Duration
2:31 h
Ascent
552 m
Descent
552 m
Public transport friendly Loop Scenic

Statistics

: h
 km
 m
 m
Highest point
 m
Lowest point
 m
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