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Fitness
Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata Ottorino Marangoni - Monte Albano

· 4 reviews · Fixed rope route · Rovereto,Vallagarina,Altopiano di Brentonico · closed
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Garda Trentino Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • via ferrata in Rovereto,Vallagarina,Altopiano di Brentonico: Via Ferrata ...
    / via ferrata in Rovereto,Vallagarina,Altopiano di Brentonico: Via Ferrata ...
    Video: Outdooractive
  • / Via Ferrata Monte Albano. with view over Mori
    Photo: Ralf Stute - www.via-ferrata.de, Garda Trentino
  • / Via Ferrata O. Marangoni - Monte Albano
    Photo: Eleborazione grafica di Sveva Seneci, Garda Trentino
  • / giovedì 21 novembre 2019, 20:33
    Photo: Gianni Battistata, Community
  • / giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:02:34
    Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
m 800 700 600 500 400 300 200 100 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 km

Created in 1976 by the CAI-SAT section of Mori, it is one of the most difficult and spectacular climbing routes in the Alps. It was completely renovated in 2014.
closed
difficult
3.6 km
3:30 h
551 m
551 m

The only ferrata outside the Sarca/Garda valley axis but, given its proximity, is historically one of the most popular bolted routes with visitors to Garda Trentino. The first via ferrata in the modern style, created in 1976, has been renowned for years for its technical challenges and exposure.

The short, easy access route, proximity to roads, and its aspect which mean it can be climbed all year round, have made it a favourite with hundreds of thousands of ascents over the years, making the rock smooth and increasing the level of difficulty. So in 2014 SAT undertook to overhaul the route, adding many new holds and generally facilitating the users. It is nonetheless still physically challenging on certain sections. The ferrata is noted for its succession of exposed traverses with a bird’s eye view over the village of Mori.

As in the case of Pisetta and Dain Piccolo, the first metres of the ascent have been deliberately left difficult so that users are aware of the effort required and have a chance to retreat before committing to the ascent.

Author’s recommendation

This via ferrata is exposed to the south: in summer, avoid it when it's too hot or start the route early in the morning.
outdooractive.com User
Author
Staff Outdoor GardaTrentino SO 
Updated: May 22, 2020

Difficulty
D/E difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Monte Albano, 625 m
Lowest point
Mori, 202 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition
NESW
Descent
0:30 h

Safety information

  1. Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
  2. Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
  3. Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
  4. The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
  5. Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice on some routes which make progression dangerous.
  6. Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems); put on your helmet once you get near to the wall. Rocks might fall before you get to the start of the via ferrata.
  7. During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one is clipped on to each safety cable.
  8. Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
  9. Wear clothing suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route: hiking boots and ferrata gloves to protect you from contact with the metal parts.
  10. Pay special attention on the easy parts where there are no cables.
  11. Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather. If you even think you see any problems that might compromise safety, turn back and let us know about the situation at info@gardatrentino.it .
  12. Always evaluate a few important conditions: the proximity to other crowds, all the gears available and the preservation of the route. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for taking this path and the safety rules and features that goes with it.
  13. These instructions are no substitute for the specific courses held by mountaineering associations or professional guides. Unless you have experience doing via ferratas, it is better to go accompanied by a mountain guide.

Emergency number 112.

The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.

Tips, hints and links

  • For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda:
     APT Garda Trentino, Tel. +39 0464 554444 - www.gardatrentino.it

Start

Mori (201 m)
Coordinates:
Geographic
45.853785, 10.979438
UTM
32T 653674 5079707

Destination

Mori

Turn-by-turn directions

Access:
From the centre of Mori follow directions and head uphill towards the sanctuary from which a short trail takes you to the start of the via ferrata- (Put on your helmet before you approach the rock wall – this is an area where stones may fall dislodged by people above you on the ferrata)

Description:
the first rocky outcrop (1) is deliberately without any chains in order to discourage the unprepared. The first section climbs up through a series of chimneys (3), punctuated by short traverses (2), fitted with numerous rungs and with some strenuous stretches. A traverse to the left (4) takes you to the great ledge halfway up the wall. Traverse to the left until you are going up another chimney (5) and then with another lofty traverse you reach the libro di via or route book (6). Following the sequence of rungs you can get past a sequence of slabs and vertical dihedrals (7) which lead you off the wall.

Descent:
Follow the signposted path back down which follows the left edge of the wall to take you back tot the sanctuary.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public transport friendly

Mori is connected to the centers of Garda Trentino by the bus line 332 (Riva - Rovereto - Trento).
For up-to-the-minute information on timetables and routes: www.gardatrentino.it

Getting there

Getting to northern lake Garda / Garda Trentino: www.gardatrentino.it

Mori is about 15 km from Riva del Garda. You can reach it via the state road 240 in the direction Rovereto.

Parking

There are several parking places available in Mori. 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Garda Trentino trekking map – On sale in information offices in Riva del Garda, Arco and Torbole

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

Questions & Answers

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Reviews

5.0
(4)
Luciano Fregni
August 22, 2019 · Community
Impegnativa ma entusiasmante
show more
giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:02:34
Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:02:59
Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:03:21
Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:03:57
Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
giovedì 22 agosto 2019 14:04:15
Photo: Luciano Fregni, Community
Gideon de Jonge
June 11, 2019 · Community
Photo: Gideon de Jonge, Community
Photo: Gideon de Jonge, Community
Show all reviews

Photos from others

+ 4

Status
closed
Reviews
Difficulty
D/E difficult
Distance
3.6 km
Duration
3:30h
Ascent
551 m
Descent
551 m
Public transport friendly Loop Scenic Summit route classic via ferrata

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