Share
Bookmark
Plan a route here Copy route
Fitness
Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta - Dain Piccolo

· 3 reviews · Fixed rope route · Garda Trentino
Responsible for this content
Garda Trentino Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • via ferrata at Lake Garda: Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta - Dain Piccolo
    / via ferrata at Lake Garda: Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta - Dain Piccolo
    Video: Outdooractive
  • / On the via ferrata "Rino Pisetta"
    Photo: www.via-ferrata.de, Garda Trentino
  • / Via Ferrata "Rino Pisetta" al Dain Piccolo
    Photo: Elaborazione grafica Sveva Seneci, Garda Trentino
  • / View from the ferrata Pisetta
    Photo: www.via-ferrata.de, Garda Trentino
ft 4000 3500 3000 2500 2000 1500 1000 500 3.5 3.0 2.5 2.0 1.5 1.0 0.5 mi Hosteria Toblino Hosteria Toblino

This Via Ferrata is the most difficult ferrata at northern lake Garda. It requires a really good condition and know-how: it is therefore advised only for experienced climbers. 
difficult
6.1 km
5:00 h
899 m
898 m

The rocky pillar of Dain Piccolo closes the Sarca Valley to the north, towering above the town of Sarche and Lake Toblino, one of the loveliest lakes in the Alps. The sheer wall of  Dain Piccolo has witnessed some of the most exhilarating feats in climbing, from the masterpiece of the Canna d’Organo freed by Bruno Detassis to the extreme modern routes by Larcher and co..

To the far right of the SE wall a via ferrata was created in 1982 and dedicated to the mountaineer Rino Pisetta.  The bolted route is the most challenging in all the Sarca Valley and one of the most difficult in the entire Alps. The continuous exposure, limited number of holds, and length, mean that it requires basic climbing technique as well as athletic training. The first section is deliberately difficult, giving you a chance to understand the nature of the ferrata and if needs be, leave by the escape route, as from here on abandoning the ferrata becomes challenging and dangerous. The route leaves indelible memories with its smooth limestone slabs risingy sheer above Lake Toblino.

 

Author’s recommendation

The view from the summit covers the entire Sarca Valley, Lake Cavedine, the Marocche of Dro, Drena Castle and in the distance, Monte Brione and Lake Garda.
outdooractive.com User
Author
Staff Outdoor GardaTrentino SO 
Updated: July 14, 2020

Difficulty
E difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Dain Piccolo, 942 m
Lowest point
Sarche, 251 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition
NESW

Rest Stop

Hosteria Toblino

Safety information

  1. Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
  2. Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
  3. Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
  4. The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
  5. Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice on some routes which make progression dangerous.
  6. Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems); put on your helmet once you get near to the wall. Rocks might fall before you get to the start of the via ferrata.
  7. During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one is clipped on to each safety cable.
  8. Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
  9. Wear clothing suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route: hiking boots and ferrata gloves to protect you from contact with the metal parts.
  10. Pay special attention on the easy parts where there are no cables.
  11. Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather. If you even think you see any problems that might compromise safety, turn back and let us know about the situation at info@gardatrentino.it .
  12. Always evaluate a few important conditions: the proximity to other crowds, all the gears available and the preservation of the route. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for taking this path and the safety rules and features that goes with it.
  13. These instructions are no substitute for the specific courses held by mountaineering associations or professional guides. Unless you have experience doing via ferratas, it is better to go accompanied by a mountain guide.

Emergency number 112.

The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.

Tips, hints and links

  • Facing a via ferrata requires knowledge of the right technique of progression and some training. If you want to try out this experience for the first time or check the use of the via ferrata set, we recommend that you contact one of our mountain guides: www.gardatrentino.it
  • For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda:  APT Garda Trentino, Tel. +39 0464 554444 - www.gardatrentino.it

Start

Sarche (251 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.047391, 10.951133
DMS
46°02'50.6"N 10°57'04.1"E
UTM
32T 650950 5101163
w3w 
///educations.hippo.tensely

Destination

Cima Garzolet - Dain Piccolo

Turn-by-turn directions

Access

From the roundabout in Sarche take the road for Madonna di Campiglio for just 50 metres. There is a narrow road on the right which leads to the car park (signposted Via Ferrata). Follow directions along the trail through the woods, across the base of the Dain Piccolo crag. You come to the junction with the path which leads down and gain elevation as far as the start of the ferrata marked by a metal plaque.

Route

Climb a first vertical wall bolted with cables and at the end you can choose to leave it by taking the bolted trail to the right (1). An exposed traverse (2) leads to a system of slabs after which you come to a great pillar (3). Head up the pillar, first along the left ridge and then up the centre, until you come to the log book (4) at the top of the pillar: after this point the route is less demanding until you get to the summit.

Return

Head north along a steep trail and then a dirt track until you get to the town of Ranzo. At the column of San Vigilio take the trail on the left which leads down under the south face of Dain Piccolo. Short sections bolted with cables allow you to descend over rocky outcrops and reach the steep trail which leads down to Sarche. ( 1.5 hours from the summit).

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Public transport friendly

You can reach Sarche with the bus line "Riva - Sarche - Trento". 

Info & timetable: www.gardatrentino.it 

Getting there

Sarche is about 23 kms from Riva del Garda and Torbole, 17 from Arco. 

Follow the directions to Trento / SS 45 bis: you pass by Ceniga, Dro and Pietramurata. Once in Sarche, at the roundabout, follow the directions to Madonna di Campiglio / Comano Terme; after 50m, just opposite the gas station, turn right (sign P - Via ferrata Rino Pisetta). 

Getting to northern lake Garda: www.gardatrentino.it

Parking

Free parking place in Sarche. 

Coordinates

DD
46.047391, 10.951133
DMS
46°02'50.6"N 10°57'04.1"E
UTM
32T 650950 5101163
w3w 
///educations.hippo.tensely
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

  • Garda Trentino trekking map – On sale in information offices in Riva del Garda, Arco and Torbole

Book recommendations for this region:

show more

Recommended maps for this region:

show more

Equipment

  • technical mountain clothing   
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole   
  • via ferrata gear   
  • harness   
  • helmet   
  • gloves   
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)   
  • a length of rope (recommended)

Questions & Answers

Ask the first question

Got questions regarding this content? Ask them here.


Reviews

4.3
(3)
Markus L. 
June 15, 2020 · Community
Climbed this Via Ferrata already 3 times...during all Lago di Garda-visits. Nice tour with different descent-options. (bring lot of water on sunny days ;-)
show more

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
E difficult
Distance
6.1 km
Duration
5:00h
Ascent
899 m
Descent
898 m
Public transport friendly Loop Scenic Summit route

Statistics

  • 2D 3D
  • Contents
  • Show images Hide images
: h
 km
 m
 m
 m
 m
For changing the range of view, push the arrows together.